BALI - Island of Rice Fields, Temples and Paintings (18 Nov – 24 Nov 2012)

Having travelled to many countries, it is time to visit my neighouring country, Indonesia. I had selected the little popular Bali island. The main attraction was the rice terrace. The last time I saw rice terrace was in Vietnam, Sapa in 2002. I knew I would love that green scenery.

I was happy to grab an inexpensive Jetstar ticket for S$188. However, travelling in Bali was stressful since there was no public transport. The only way to move around was by hiring a private car or riding on a motor bike. On my arrival at the Bali airport, I stood at the private taxi counter asking the staff to help me get other passengers to Ubud. The counter staff was not too helpful with such arrangement as there were many taxi drivers waiting to get individual passenger onto their taxi. About 20 minutes later, 2 ladies, a Spanish traveller and an Indian traveller, were at the taxi counter asking for taxi to Ubud. I quickly asked for permission to join them. Thus, 3 persons shared a taxi costing 200000 IDR, S$26. It took us 1.5 hours to reach the touristic Monkey Forest Road.

Day 1 (18 Nov, Sun)

 There were many little shops on both side of Monkey Forest Road.  Near the Monkey Forest Sanctuary, many mischievous monkeys put on their notorious acts.  They climbed to the top of tourist bus.  My American friend staying at a hostel nearby had to close her window to avoid these unwelcome visitors.  I reached my hostel, Inda Lodge (150000 IDR, S$19 per night) located at Jalan Bisma after a 45 minutes walk.  My room (No 1) has a rice field facing it and a big garden on the left.  I like this bright room and stayed 5 nights.  For dinner, I had fried vegetable which was salty and rice for 25000 IDR, S$3.20.

 

Day 2 (19 Nov, Mon)  I walked to Campuan Ridge.  I walked for about two hours. I saw rice fields and a scenic view of the frangipani trees blooming with pink big flowers.  It was like a lovely peach blossom season in spring.  I bought a small painting with colourful of rice terrace for 50000 IDR, S$6.50.  One shop-keeper invited me to her home to see her husband doing the painting.  Wow! the fine details of painting made me realized that it was not just imagination but perseverance to complete this masterpiece.

Day 3 (20 Nov, Tue)  I went to Penestanan and Sayan Village.  I had a long walk of almost 4 hours.  I passed by a crowded organic vegetable store and an Indian guesthouse with noisy dogs barking fiercely.  A nearby villager working for a travel agency directed me to Sayan village knowing that I wanted to go there.  Sayan village is filled with numerous rice fields and I almost could not find my way out.  I went to Ayung River.  Next to Ayung River was a hotel.  Standing on high ground of the hotel, I was mesmerized by the dramatic view of the rice terrace around the valley area.  After a long hike, I had coconut drink for 12000 IDR, S$1.50 and dinner at Uma’s restaurant.  I ate the delicious fish batur in herbal spicy sauce (20000 IDR,

S$2,50) and tahu goreng.  I went back 2 days later to eat that fish batur again. On my way back, I saw a beautiful sunset.

Day 4 (21 Nov, Wed)  I went out with an American lady traveller in a private car.  I paid 250,000 IDR, S$32 for the tour to 5 attractions.  1)  Pura Ulun Danu Bratan also known as Temple by the Lake.  2) Bali Botanical Gardens (entrance: 13000 IDR, S$1.60).  The garden had some desert plants in the green house, tall tree ferns, old and huge

banyan tree more than 1000 years and the cool forest areas.  No wonder the garden was listed as the top choice in lonely planet guide book. 3) Jatiluwih rice fields (real beautiful) with emerald ribbons curve around the hillside (entrance 15000 IDR, S$1.90). These rice terraces have been nominated for Unesco status for being emblematic of Bali’s ancient rice-growing culture.  4) Pura Luhur Batukau (entrance 10000 IDR, S$1.30), a quiet temple set in the forest with a lake.  5) Pura Tanah Lot (entrance 30000 IDR,S$3.90), a sea temple sitting on a rock.  Quite unique!  The tour finished at 7.30pm and was quite dark on the way back.  

Day 5 (22 Nov, Thu) Relax and went back to Uma’s restaurant for the fish batur eaten on Day 3. Walked along Jalan Bisma to enjoy the greenery.

Day 6 (23 Nov, Fri) Went to Kuta (1.5 hrs from Ubud, 50000 IDR, S$6.50). Kuta attraction is the beach. Kuta encountered a tragic event of Bali bombing on 12 Oct 2002 killing more than 200 people. The affected area was near to big Sky Garden pub. Legian Street has many lovely handicraft shops. I bought papaya and mango from the Bintang supermarket and ate them on my way to Chempaka 2 guesthouse at Poppies Lane II. I had a horrible dinner (21000 IDR, S$2.70) with the tough beef rendang meat and a big tasteless begedi (a fried potato patty) at a restaurant.

  Day 7 (24 Nov, Sat) Shared a taxi with a German lady to the airport and upon arrival at Singapore airport, I rushed to catch the 4pm movie, Rise of the Guardians, at GV Marina Square.

My Thought

Hiking on Day 2 (Campuan Ridge) and Day 3 (Penestanan and Sayan Village) were very refreshing experience. My soul was captivated by the greenery of rice fields and coconut trees. Bali Botanical Gardens in its simplicity was charming. Jatiluwih rice fields though listed under Unesco was not as attractive as the rice terrace at Ayung River. Though it was expensive to travel alone, I was indeed glad that I managed to share transport expenses with other lady travellers from Spain, India, America and Germany. I had learnt to speak my intention frankly so that the other travellers get my messages clearly.

ICELAND, the Land of Fire and Ice (Jun 12 – 25 2012)

Getting into Iceland is the fulfillment of my personal travel vision of “one continent, one country”.  Why choose Iceland?  Because I wanted to experience in midnight sun (day light of 22 hours) and interestingly iceberg.

I flew by Finnair to Helsinki (S$1,060, 12 hours) followed by a connecting flight IcelandAir (S$450, 3.5 hours) to Keflavik Airport in Reykjavik, Iceland capital.  Upon arrival, I took a shuttle bus to Reykjavik town centre and stayed at Domus Guesthouse (S$30 per night).  The guesthouse offered free internet and washing machine for laundry.  What I enjoyed most was the well equipped spacious kitchen where I prepared many meals and watching TV programme - Euro Cup with other guests. I stayed 8 nights there. 

 A)  Reykjavik Town

The main shopping street is Laugavegur where the supermarket “Bonus”, food outlets, tourist offices, shops are located.  There is a concert hall, harbour and beautiful home.  Surprisingly, there is also a big graveyard. The iconic structure is the Hallgrímskirkja Church, a Lutheran church standing at 74.5m.  The church structure is based on the basalt volcanic formation with many vertical pillars. 

B)  Golden Circle

     ( Bingvellir National Park – Geysir Hot Spring – Gullfoss Waterfall )

These destinations are full of natural beauty.  Bingvellir is a national park on the UNESCO world heritage list.  It lies within a belt of volcanic activity and fissures which is part of the mid-Atlantic Ridge, the junction of the American and Europe tectonic plate.  Geysir hot spring, bursts upwards in an impressive 15m to 30m, is surrounded by many smaller colourful springs bubbling with milky pools and steam vents. Gullfoss, Iceland most famous waterfall with a spectacular double cascade, dropping another 32m.

  

(C)  Skogar

It took 3 hours from Reykjavik to reach Skogar. The route passes through some of the prettiest countryside area with green fields, farms, villages and mountains including Mount Hekla, the country’s most active volcano.  The main attractions were the magnificient Skogafoss waterfall (60m drop) and the Folk Museum with farm houses and church building.  I stayed at the camp site and was freezing cold that night because of the rain.

(D)  Skaftafell

Skaftafell which is part of Vatnajokull National Park has a breathtaking collection of peaks and glaciers.  It is the country’s favourite wilderness.  I took a one-hour return walk to see the glacier tongue and another 1.5-hour return walk to the Svartifoss waterfall (20m drop) with hanging hexagonal basalt columns underlying it. I stayed 2 nights at the camp site and still feeling freezing cold.

(E)  Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lagoon)

The stunning Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon has a host of spectacular, luminous-blue icebergs drifting into the glacier lagoon. The age of the ice is between 1000 to 1500 years. Two James Bond films, A View to A Kill and Die Another Day were shot there.  I took a 45-minute boat tour (S$35) noticing a few lazy seals lying on the icebergs waiting for their catch.  I spent half a day watching icebergs at the lagoon breaking away and changing its position with noisy bang.

(F)  Landmannalaugar

This unique place has multicoloured mountains and a soothing hot spring. It is well known for its rich and colourful rhyolite mountain located at Brennisteinsalda.  I walked 2 hours to reach this rhyolite mountain with the help of a Russian trekking guide. Along the way, the numerous chain of mountains set on a clear weather amazed me greatly.  For the first time, my shoes were stuck to the sandy ice while climbing up some hilly slopes.  I stayed at the highland hut (S$50) with the great kitchen facilities to prepare my porridge. Upon arrival, the staff directed me to a hot spring where I jumped in without hesitation since I did not had shower for 3 days.  

(G)  Þórsmörk

Þórsmörk  is a beautiful nature reserve situated between three glaciers.  This area is rich in bird life and arctic vegetation. I saw an ancient plant, horsetail. I remembered our big bus had to cross many big streams. Thanks to the bus power and the skilful bus driver.  I had 2 different walks of 1 hour each making me extremely tired that afternoon. 

  

(H)  Reykjavik Botanical Garden

I walked for about half an hour to reach the Botanical Garden from Domus Guesthouse.  A local gave me a lift to this garden knowing that I had difficulty going by the shorter route. This garden has beautiful landscape, collection of roses and forest floor plants from the north temperate zone. I learnt the name of a common purple flower, Lupinus Nootkatensis.  There is a little greenhouse with grapes grown on some branches and other flowering plants.  Inside the greenhouse, there is a small stage for mini musical performance and a café.  I heard the Iceland folk song here.

(I)  Greater Reykjavik

I bought a one-pass local bus pass (S$8).  My first stop was Hafnafjörður, a seaport.  The attraction were the Viking restaurant and Elf Garden.  There was a shopping mall and a library.  Quite an attractive little town. 

My second stop was Álftanes, a quiet town. From a distance, I could see a very beautiful building at Bessastaðir with the mountain as the backdrop.  I was informed by the visitor guide book that the President of Iceland resides at that building which was formerly a farm.

My final stop was Perlan meaning The Pearl.  Perlan is a water tower in Reykjavik with water tanks and a hemispherical structure placed on top.   There are viewing area, restaurant, shop and a Saga museum in this tower.

(J)  Blue Lagoon

 The lagoon has been landscaped with hot pots, wooden decks and piping hot water from the geothermal plant.  The super heated sea water is rich in blue-green algae, mineral salts and fine silica mud which condition the skin.  The high admission fee of S$58 had prevented my entry.  I spent my time at the cosy café overlooking the lagoon.  Arrived lagoon around 6pm and left around 8.30pm to the airport. 

(K)  Sundhöllin Thermal Pool   

It is the city only indoor swimming pool with a jumping platform and some gym equipment.  There is an outdoor warm jacuzzi and a steam bath.  The pool entrance fee is S$5.  The pool water is really clean.   I did a few laps of breaststroke without putting on my goggle and did not experience any redness in my eyes.

  

Q -  My Thought  - Q

I enjoyed the midnight sun and the beauty of mountains, plants and icebergs.  Even the lumpy lava rocks covered with moss can be extremely beautiful. I collected some volcanic stones from the Botanical Garden and the Blue Lagoon.

With a 7-day beautiful south bus passport (S$376), I spent many hours travelling to the southern part of Iceland, I did not feel exhausted. The cold temperature of around 10 degree, the high quality drinking water and the fresh clean air strengthened me.  The Subway sandwich deal (S$4.20) added freshness to my daily diet.

I learned to capture beautiful images of scenery in my mind as my camera battery charger went on strike.  Nevertheless, I picked up a Nikon Coolpix camera model S2500 at the Geysir area.

I lost the great opportunity to take nice pictures, yet I found a much better camera.  I had given a few krona (Iceland currency) coins to a German backpacker, Anna, so that she could enjoy a hot shower.  On the other hand, I was given free ride to two destinations by the locals.  I gave little yet was rewarded with a double portion.  What a joyful deal indeed!!!   

OUT OF SOUTH AFRICA (NOV 1 – 15 2011)

South Africa is another unique destination to me. It has magnificent mountain like Table Mountain, lush green forest of Tsitsikamma, near Garden Route to the unspoilt beaches of Coffee Bay, near Port St Johns, and Cape Town.

I flew by SQ478, 2am flight on 1 Nov 2011, reaching Cape Town around 10.35am. (13 hours non-stop flight).



A. CAPE TOWN (Nov 1 – 4 2011)Set against the magnificent backdrop of Table Mountain which dominates the skyline at all time. It has the title “Mother City of South Africa” with its beauty and popularity.
Day 1 – Visit to the Table Mountain (1086 m) by cable car. At the flat mountain peak, I was mesmerized by Camps Bay, Lion’s Head and Robben Island where some political figures like Mandela were imprisoned.
Day 2 - Went to Muizenberg by local train (40 minutes). Muizenberg is well-known for its colourful beach huts and the seaside on False Bay has the best rolling wave for surfing. I went over to Kalk Bay fishing harbor for lunch. Kalk Bay fishing harbor is really beautiful. I also went to Simon’s Town, home to the SA Navy by train. The 30-min train ride to Simon’s Town was really fun as the train ride was side-by-side to the beaches.
Day 3 - I bought a citysightseeing bus (R140, S$23) to visit the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Spend 3 hours enjoying the indigenous plants like the special yellow bird of the paradise, cypress tree, lavender tree, fynbos (mountain plants) and European oak tree. Mr Pearson’s grave, the first director of this garden was in this garden. I found out from their useful plant segment that 72% of the Africans used them as traditional medicines. Cycad, the ancient plant, is protected by SA law. My day ended with a visit to the oldest winery (1685), Groot Constantia. The winery had neatly line of old oak trees, a restaurant converted from the slave quarter and the manor house. I visited Green Market Square and colourful Bo-Kaap, the Muslim settlement. On the citysightseeing bus, managed to see many lovely bays just from the bus window and the 12 apostles of Table Mountain.

B. GARDEN ROUTE
I bought a 7-day travel pass from Baz Bus, a backpacker bus for R1200 (S$200) to get onto this route. The 5-hour bus ride on the Garden Route stretches from Mossel Bay to the Tsitsikamma River Mouth (before Jeffreys Bay) was a necklace of bays, beaches and cliffs. The majestic Outeniqua mountain crowds the shoreline and a high rainfall on these peaks provide a consistent supply of water to the narrow coastal area enabling plant growth. I stopped at Knysna which is mid-way of the Garden Route.
C. KNYSNA (Nov 5 – 6 2011)
Knysna sprawls around a stunning tidal lagoon whose entrance is guarded by two rocky cliffs called The Heads. Knysna has oyster farms. 6 big fresh oysters cost only R48 (S$8). There is a timber village where timbers from this ancient forest were sculptured. I took a 75-minute ferry cruise (R85, S$14) to tour round the lagoon and also to see The Heads and the private Featherbed Nature Reserve. On the second day, I went to the small Knysna Library, bargain book shop where I bought 2 souvenir pictorial books at R39 (S$6.50) each. For both days, I had fish and chip (R55, S$9) for lunch at the waterfront and another meal near the library.

D. COFFEE BAY (Nov 8 2011; Nov 7 stayed at Port Elizabeth) I was advised to visit Coffee Bay which is 2 hours ride away from Umtata or Mthatha. Mthatha is the birth place of Nelson Mandela. There was also a Mandela museum here. We drove passed this special place.
Coffee Bay lies in the heart of the Wild Coast, this undisturbed bay is surrounded by rolling hills with three rivers flowing though the valleys into the sea, miles of white beaches backed by cliffs. Life is simple and rural. The people called Xhosa stayed there The Xhosa family keeps the big 5 too which are cows, pigs, goats, horses, sheep. They had a small farm where the staple food like maize is planted. Their home is a green hut made of mud, crushed limestone and the roof top is filled with a tyre. For the unpainted wall, its function was to absorb heat for the night. A villager told me that it took two weeks to build a hut. Whenever a hammerhead bird stayed at the roof, they believe it is bad luck and will vacate.


E. JOHANNESBURG (Nov 10, 13 – 14 2011; Nov 9 stayed at Durban)
It is a city to be avoided because of the high crime rate. Some even have electric fence. Upon arrival into Jo’burg, I was welcomed by lines of soft purple Jacaranda flowers. On the last day, I visited Rosebank Mall to get some souvenirs.

F. KRUGER NATIONAL PARK (Nov 11 – 13 2011)
The world-renowned Kruger National Park offers a wildlife experience that ranks with the best in Africa. Established in 1898 to protect the wildlife of the South African, this national park of nearly 2 million hectares. I booked my 3-day Kruger National Park tour with Viva Safari (R3995, S$670).
Day 1 - Reached Nelspruit around 5pm in time for the sunset and night drive. I saw rhino, deers and giraffe. For dinner, I had SA home cooked chicken and potato. At night, I tucked myself into a tent at Marc’s camp site.
Day 2 - full day at the Kruger Park. It was really hot around 38o travelling on the open gameviewer. The activities of the elephant family, zebra, giraffe, rhino were an eye opener. Spotted lions, buffaloes and the kudu (antelope) and an ancient Baobab tree. Out of the big 5 of elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo, leopard, leopard was not “available”.
Day 3 - morning bush walk where I get to know about toxic tree. I did not get to enjoy the Blyde River Canyon as the van driver started late.

REFLECTION
Though I spent many hours travelling on the baz bus, I experienced the beauty of the coastal areas with rolling waves and the majestic Table Mountain, Outeniqua Mountain and the Drakensberg Mountain. I am drawn to the many lovely indigenous plants and flowers. I stayed in many different areas from the old Victorian home (Cat & Moose at Cape Town), resort (Island Vibe at Knysna), tent (Marc’s Camp near Kruger Park) and castle (Ritz at Jo’burg). The 15-day gave me an overview of South Africa. SA is not a dangerous place if you are careful. When I was deciding on going alone for a local train ride to Muizenberg, a female Austrian traveler advised me to go ahead with my feeling.

I met many experienced international backpackers. The fun part was to see what these backpackers cooked during dinner at the Cat and Moose Backpackers Lodge in Cape Town.

TURKEY TRIP (26 MAY - 11 JUN 2010)
Wondering where to go for your next holidays? Choose Turkey. I was there from 26 May to 11 Jun 2010. Let me give you a glimpse of what to expect from this beautiful country.

ISTANBUL is the only city in the world located on two continents, Europe and Asia. In its thousands years of history, it has been the capital of three great empires – Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman.
** Must Go
- Blue Mosque (Picture top) built between 1606 and 1616
- Topkapi Palace where Ottoman sultans live in 1453
- Aya Sofya, world most glorious buildings completed in AD 537
- Dolmabahce Palace built between 1843 and 1856, home to six sultans and presidential house of founding leader, Ataturk. - Grand Bazaar has more than 4,000 shops
- Fish Market, Spice BazaarBosphorus Cruise where shores are sprinkled with monuments

PERGAMUM has well-preserved ruins of Acropolis or highest city with its marble-columned Temple.



EPHESUS is the best preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean including Great Theatre and the Library of Celsus.


SIRINCE, 1-hour ride from Ephesus, is a lovely Greek village with traditional two-storey houses and historical beauty with grapevine, olive grove and peach orchards.


PAMUKKALE is renowned for its gleaming white ledges (travertines) with pools that flow down over the plateau edge (top). There is also an antique pool (right) where the water has healing properties for the heart and lung.


As I climb the hill above Pamukkale village, I entered the ruins of Hierapolis including a huge theatre.

Cappadocia, the central mountainous area is a land of fairy chimneys and underground cities. The fairy chimneys have the formation of mushroom, pyramid and camel. The movie, Star Wars did some filming at this magical place.

= MUST NOT miss while you are in Turkey

Enjoy this breakfast menu item, Menemen.
It has eggs and tomatoes with green pepper.
At Cappadocia, stays in a CAVE HOUSE.
You will get a good night rest as it is cooling.