Wednesday, December 12, 2012

ICELAND, the Land of Fire and Ice (Jun 12 – 25 2012)

Getting into Iceland is the fulfillment of my personal travel vision of “one continent, one country”.  Why choose Iceland?  Because I wanted to experience in midnight sun (day light of 22 hours) and interestingly iceberg.

I flew by Finnair to Helsinki (S$1,060, 12 hours) followed by a connecting flight IcelandAir (S$450, 3.5 hours) to Keflavik Airport in Reykjavik, Iceland capital.  Upon arrival, I took a shuttle bus to Reykjavik town centre and stayed at Domus Guesthouse (S$30 per night).  The guesthouse offered free internet and washing machine for laundry.  What I enjoyed most was the well equipped spacious kitchen where I prepared many meals and watching TV programme - Euro Cup with other guests. I stayed 8 nights there. 

 A)  Reykjavik Town
The main shopping street is Laugavegur where the supermarket “Bonus”, food outlets, tourist offices, shops are located.  There is a concert hall, harbour and beautiful home.  Surprisingly, there is also a big graveyard. The iconic structure is the Hallgrímskirkja Church, a Lutheran church standing at 74.5m.  The church structure is based on the basalt volcanic formation with many vertical pillars. 

B)  Golden Circle
     ( Bingvellir National Park Geysir Hot Spring Gullfoss Waterfall )
These destinations are full of natural beauty.  Bingvellir is a national park on the UNESCO world heritage list.  It lies within a belt of volcanic activity and fissures which is part of the mid-Atlantic Ridge, the junction of the American and Europe tectonic plate.  Geysir hot spring, bursts upwards in an impressive 15m to 30m, is surrounded by many smaller colourful springs bubbling with milky pools and steam vents. Gullfoss, Iceland most famous waterfall with a spectacular double cascade, dropping another 32m.
  
(C)  Skogar
It took 3 hours from Reykjavik to reach Skogar. The route passes through some of the prettiest countryside area with green fields, farms, villages and mountains including Mount Hekla, the country’s most active volcano.  The main attractions were the magnificient Skogafoss waterfall (60m drop) and the Folk Museum with farm houses and church building.  I stayed at the camp site and was freezing cold that night because of the rain.

(D)  Skaftafell
Skaftafell which is part of Vatnajokull National Park has a breathtaking collection of peaks and glaciers.  It is the country’s favourite wilderness.  I took a one-hour return walk to see the glacier tongue and another 1.5-hour return walk to the Svartifoss waterfall (20m drop) with hanging hexagonal basalt columns underlying it. I stayed 2 nights at the camp site and still feeling freezing cold.

(E)  Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lagoon)
The stunning Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon has a host of spectacular, luminous-blue icebergs drifting into the glacier lagoon. The age of the ice is between 1000 to 1500 years. Two James Bond films, A View to A Kill and Die Another Day were shot there.  I took a 45-minute boat tour (S$35) noticing a few lazy seals lying on the icebergs waiting for their catch.  I spent half a day watching icebergs at the lagoon breaking away and changing its position with noisy bang.


(F)  Landmannalaugar
This unique place has multicoloured mountains and a soothing hot spring. It is well known for its rich and colourful rhyolite mountain located at Brennisteinsalda.  I walked 2 hours to reach this rhyolite mountain with the help of a Russian trekking guide. Along the way, the numerous chain of mountains set on a clear weather amazed me greatly.  For the first time, my shoes were stuck to the sandy ice while climbing up some hilly slopes.  I stayed at the highland hut (S$50) with the great kitchen facilities to prepare my porridge. Upon arrival, the staff directed me to a hot spring where I jumped in without hesitation since I did not had shower for 3 days.  

(G)  Þórsmörk
Þórsmörk  is a beautiful nature reserve situated between three glaciers.  This area is rich in bird life and arctic vegetation. I saw an ancient plant, horsetail. I remembered our big bus had to cross many big streams. Thanks to the bus power and the skilful bus driver.  I had 2 different walks of 1 hour each making me extremely tired that afternoon. 
  
(H)  Reykjavik Botanical Garden
I walked for about half an hour to reach the Botanical Garden from Domus Guesthouse.  A local gave me a lift to this garden knowing that I had difficulty going by the shorter route. This garden has beautiful landscape, collection of roses and forest floor plants from the north temperate zone. I learnt the name of a common purple flower, Lupinus Nootkatensis.  There is a little greenhouse with grapes grown on some branches and other flowering plants.  Inside the greenhouse, there is a small stage for mini musical performance and a café.  I heard the Iceland folk song here.

(I)  Greater Reykjavik
I bought a one-pass local bus pass (S$8).  My first stop was Hafnafjörður, a seaport.  The attraction were the Viking restaurant and Elf Garden.  There was a shopping mall and a library.  Quite an attractive little town. 
My second stop was Álftanes, a quiet town. From a distance, I could see a very beautiful building at Bessastaðir with the mountain as the backdrop.  I was informed by the visitor guide book that the President of Iceland resides at that building which was formerly a farm.

My final stop was Perlan meaning The Pearl.  Perlan is a water tower in Reykjavik with water tanks and a hemispherical structure placed on top.   There are viewing area, restaurant, shop and a Saga museum in this tower.

(J)  Blue Lagoon
 The lagoon has been landscaped with hot pots, wooden decks and piping hot water from the geothermal plant.  The super heated sea water is rich in blue-green algae, mineral salts and fine silica mud which condition the skin.  The high admission fee of S$58 had prevented my entry.  I spent my time at the cosy café overlooking the lagoon.  Arrived lagoon around 6pm and left around 8.30pm to the airport. 

(K)  Sundhöllin Thermal Pool   
It is the city only indoor swimming pool with a jumping platform and some gym equipment.  There is an outdoor warm jacuzzi and a steam bath.  The pool entrance fee is S$5.  The pool water is really clean.   I did a few laps of breaststroke without putting on my goggle and did not experience any redness in my eyes.

  
Q -  My Thought  - Q
I enjoyed the midnight sun and the beauty of mountains, plants and icebergs.  Even the lumpy lava rocks covered with moss can be extremely beautiful. I collected some volcanic stones from the Botanical Garden and the Blue Lagoon.

With a 7-day beautiful south bus passport (S$376), I spent many hours travelling to the southern part of Iceland, I did not feel exhausted. The cold temperature of around 10 degree, the high quality drinking water and the fresh clean air strengthened me.  The Subway sandwich deal (S$4.20) added freshness to my daily diet.

I learned to capture beautiful images of scenery in my mind as my camera battery charger went on strike.  Nevertheless, I picked up a Nikon Coolpix camera model S2500 at the Geysir area.

I lost the great opportunity to take nice pictures, yet I found a much better camera.  I had given a few krona (Iceland currency) coins to a German backpacker, Anna, so that she could enjoy a hot shower.  On the other hand, I was given free ride to two destinations by the locals.  I gave little yet was rewarded with a double portion.  What a joyful deal indeed!!!   

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