CAMBODIA AND VIETNAM TRIP FROM 19 APR TO 17 MAY 2002 (29 DAYS)

[ Singapore > Siem Reap >Phnom Penh > Ho Chi Minh > Mekong Delta > Nha Trang > Hoi An > Danang > Hue > Hanoi > Sapa > Bac Ha > Halong Bay > Singapore ]

Below were 3 emails sent to my colleagues and friends while I was on the trip.

I had completed my tour of Cambodia. Some highlights of my 3-day trip at Siem Reap (Angkor Wat Area) and 3-day trip at Phnom Penh.

3 Days at Siem Reap
19/4 (Fri) - Arrived Siem Reap at 1.00pm by VN827 (Vietnam Airlines). Checked into Popular Guesthouse (US$5). Visited Phnom Bakheng (opposite Angkor Wat) in late afternoon to see sunset. Having climbed a steep and muddy slope of 60m up to the temple, no sunset to see as the cloud covered the sun. Very disappointed having paid US$2 and did not see any sunset.

20/4 (Sat) - Visited Angkor Thom (Big Angkor) to see The Bayon. Very impressive temple built around 1200. The famous carving on the outer wall at first level depicting the life scenes in the 12th century Cambodia. Next, visited The Baphuon constructed around 1050. The temple was currently undergoing restoration by a team of French archaeologist. My trip was completed by a visit to the Phimeanakas. In the afternoon, I visited the Angkor Wat. The temple was surrounded by a big stream of water called moat and thus the reflection of the temple made it very beautiful. However, the carvings were fading due to lack of restoration effort. I paid US$6 for a full-day visit to these places by motorbike as recommended by the tour operator of Popular Guesthouse.

21/4 (Sun) - Visited Banteay Srei, 32 km from Siem Reap town. This temple was small but the elaborate carving impressed me. Visited Ta Prohm, an abandoned and ruined temple. The uniqueness of this temple is the tentacle-like roots of mature trees embraced parts of the stonework. Paid US$12 for the motorbike ride. During free time, I visited Psar Chaa (Old Market) for lunch (beef noodle S$1, pork noodle S$0.75). Quite an interesting market with everything sold under one roof. My dinner for 2 nights at Siem Reap was free. I had a dinner at Red Piano for the relaxing ambience. The film crew “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001)” and the main actress, Angelina Jolie Voight had their meals there. A chat with the Belgium boss at Red Piano revealed the crew did a 10-day filming at the temple area but they stayed at Hotel Sofitel. Another great dinner was at a Chinese restaurant. There were 5 of us, 2 Cambodians, 2 Taiwaneses and me. We had a steamed soon hock fish. The bill for that meal was US$13 for 5 of us with 6 main dishes. Why free dinners? come back then tell everybody ok ...... (It was a treat from Mr Goh, tour operator of Bequest Angkor Hotel as I recommended 2 Taiwaneses to stay there).

3 Days at Phnom Penh
22/4 (Mon) - I took a speed boat from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (ferry ticket US$25). I wanted the experience of crossing the Tonle Sap River/Lake. The Tonle Sap was one of the world's richest source of freshwater fish. That was where the soon hock fish was imported to Singapore. However, the boat trip had two breakdowns wasting 2 hours, one was due to the shallow water and the other was hard to guess, the steering wheel broke. About 40 of us did not complain about the delay as most of us seemed mentally prepared. The river trip was quite interesting despite the delay. I saw water buffaloes, children playing along the river and happily waving to us and there were some floating fishing villages. That night, I was greeted by 2 Cambodian friends - Villa and Tech Menh. Villa did an orientation tour of Phnom Penh in the night and bought me koo chai kueh and coconut. Tech Menh, a father of a 52-day-old baby boy, bought me fruit juice. Tech Menh spoke very fluent English. It was really nice to hear Tech Menh especially his calm and gentle tone added with strong vocabulary sounded like music to my ears.

23/4 (Tue) - Villa picked me from Capitol Guesthouse 3 (US$4 per night) to the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda (entry fee US$3). The charm of the palace was just beyond description. Visited the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre (entry fee US$2) where the mass graves and skulls of the killing fields were revealed. An inscription from that centre had said: “The Khmer Rouge tried hard to get rid of the Khmer character and transformed into a sea of blood and tears.” Later, visited the Tuol Sleng Museum (entry fee US$2) which was formerly a high school converted into a prison and torture centre. A visit to Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng was my MAIN reason for visiting Cambodia. I could understand history better now. Visited the Russian market and bought some postcards and a book entitled “First they killed my father, a daughter of Cambodia remembers”.

24/4 (Wed) - Went to the National Museum (entry fee US$2) with numerous masterpieces of Khmer art and stone sculpture dating from the Pre-Angkorian period (4-9 century), the Angkorian Art (10-14 century) and the post Angkorian period (after the 14 century). Exhibits like stone sculpture of Shiva, Garuda (human-bird), Krishna and Buddha were taken from some of the temples like Angkor Wat and Banteay Srei. The portrait head of King Jayavarman VII who ruled in 1181 impressed me most by his work of establishing hospitals, constructing the fortified city of Angkor Thom, etc. I found a display of a big bronze church bell near the exit door. The bell had these wordings: “Gloria in Excelsis Deo, Eugene Baudouin, Fondeur A Marseille 1883”. Translated by the French and British backpackers, it meant “In celebration of God glory, built by E Baudouin, Fondeur (Job Title) at Marseille (South of France)”. Visited Wat Phnom and took a few pictures of the street scenes. One was a flora clock which was working accurately. Had lunch at Central Market with 4 dishes rice (mixed vegetable rice). I enjoyed the pumpkin custard which I failed to cook at home. Bought a few books related to the Killing Fields and some souvenir t-shirts.

I had a very clean and spacious guestroom at Capitol Guesthouse 3 in Phnom Penh but not the one at Popular Guesthouse in Siem Reap. My overall impression of Cambodia - a GREAT place not to be missed. There was a group of international backpackers where exchanges of travel information took place very actively. I strongly recommend Cambodia especially Phnom Penh. The Khmer people were calm and gentle. I felt a sense of peace while having a conversation with them. The hidden beauty and the temples should cause one to find out more about their history and the “killing fields” period (1975-79) reminded me of great sufferings which was difficult to comprehend. Do not fear the heat, landmines, robbery and muddy roads. A visit to Cambodia would help you to understand the meaning of life better.

25/4 (Thu) - I did an overland crossing from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh of Vietnam at US$6. Started at 7am from Phnom Penh and reached HCM at 5pm. About 40 of us had lunch at a restaurant where I enjoyed seeing the green rice fields with two water buffaloes and some kids fishing near the river. A cooling scene. The most torturing part was getting from Cambodia border at Moc Bai to the Vietnam border. Regina (my colleague), I quickly looked for the tailor-made bead shoes requested by you. Two shop owners could not show me any of the designs. US$10 to specially tailor-made and I did not want to risk getting a pair. So forgave me for not working hard enough to get your sandals.

26/4 - 27/4 (Fri & Sat) - Will visit the Mekong Delta upon arrival at Saigon and then proceed to the beaches at Nha Trang. I am into the cooling part of rivers and beaches.

GREETINGS FROM CENTRAL VIETNAM, HUE.

(While typing this report at Hue internet shop, there was a blackout.)

25/4 (Thu) - From Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh (HCM) by bus. Arrived HCM at 5pm

26 - 27/4 (Fri & Sat) – Spend 2 days at Mekong Delta (tour trip US$15). Been to Rung Tram Forest used by Viet Cong Army and Cai Rang Floating Market. Stayed in a nice single room at Cantho.

28/4 (Sun) – Visited HCM City - Notre Dame Cathedral built between 1877 to 1885 and the General Post Office, a good old colonial building. Both were built by French. Great architecture. Visited Reunification Palace (entry fee 15,000D, S$1.80) and War Remnants Museum (entry fee 10,000D, S$1.20). These two places described the Vietnamese war with the Americans. Went to Ben Thanh Market, a wholesale market and more for tourist souvenirs, expensive.

29/4 (Mon) - Went to the very far north of HCM to visit Cao Dai Temple. Cao Daism drew its belief from world religious including Jesus Christ, Confucius, etc. Along the way, visited the famous Ben Dinh Tunnel at Cu Chi Province (entry fee 65,000D, S$8). This tunnel was used by the Viet Cong. Temple and tunnel trip (US$4).

30/4 and 1/5 (Tue) & Wed) - Visited pine-forested hills of Dalat. Went to Truc Lam (Bamboo Forest) Zen Monastery and breathtaking Lake Tuyen Lam. Visited Flower Garden (entry fee 4,000D, S$0.50). Not interesting at all.

2/5 (Thu) - Visited Nha Trang. Nice and crowded beaches.

3 - 4/5 (Fri & Sat) - Visited Hoi An Heritage Town (entry fee 50,000D, S$6). Went to The Tran Family Home Chapel built in 1802, Fukian Assembly Hall built in 1697, Japanese Covered Bridge built in 1602, House of Hoi An Traditional Handicraft and Museum of Trade Ceramics. Hoi An was recognized as the beautiful and best little ancient town as it was very well preserved.

5/5 (Sun) - Visited the uninteresting Danang Marble Mountain (entry fee 10,000D, S$1.20). Hai Van Pass, on the way to Hue was very scenic. Reached Hue at 2pm. Visited the very beautiful Imperial City (entry fee 55,000D, S$6.70). Spend 3 hours there. Hue was hosting a great cultural festival 2002 held once in every two years. Thus room was very expensive (US$10 per night). Met an unfamiliar reporter from Hanoi who bought me dinner. Very touched.

6/5 (Mon Morning) – Boat ride to the Perfume River of Hue. First stop was at Thien Mu Pagoda, a symbol of the Hue constructed in 1601. Visited the imperial tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh (1916-1925) due to its unique architecture (entry fee 55,000D, S$6.70 for visit to only one tomb). Perfume River was very peaceful.

6/5 (Mon Evening) - Took an overnight train at 10.47pm to Hanoi at 2.30pm (US$20). 15 hours ride of my first experience of travelling on train.

Plan to be in Hanoi for 8 days. High expectation of Hanoi.

MY LAST REPORT ON HANOI (6 – 17 MAY 2002).

6/5 (Mon) - The morning view of the country side was lovely and cooling. However, a little charming 6-month-old baby boy (Vietnamese mother and father from Holland) screaming at night as he had stomach upset. But I continued snoring as I did not know how to help. Reached Hanoi at 2.30pm (Tue).

7/5 (Tue) - Had my first bad experience with a Hanoi driver at Hanoi train station. 5 backpackers agreed on 50,000D (S$6) but upon alighting, the driver demanded 100,000D (S$12). At last, we gave only 75,000D. Stayed in dorm bed at Ngoc Dung Hotel at Old Quarter (US$3 per night). Got to know a very beautiful New Zealander girl called Grace.

8/5 (Wed) - Went out with Grace to visit the scaring Hoa Lo Prison, Vietnam Fine Arts Museum (10,000D, S$1.20) and tasted best coffee at Moca Cafe (Expresso was about S$1.40, expensive and not that fantastic). Watched the 5.15pm water puppet show at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (20,000D, S$2.40). Show lasted for 1 hour. Great show. Moved to Prince 79 Hotel at Hang Bac Street, slept in my favourite Dorm Bed No 3 (US$2 per night).

9/5 (Thu) - Visited Ho Chi Minh Mausoluem to see the body of President Ho Chi Minh and HCM Museum (entry fee 5,000D, S$0.60) in the morning. Uncle Ho Chi Minh was a great man respected by his people. Bought jackfruit (1,000D, S$0.12) from a lady carrying 2 heavy baskets of fruits. Shared fruits with her 2 friends selling water melons and mangoes. All of us enjoyed eating the fruits very much. Touched by her generosity when the jackfruit seller wanted to return my money later.

10/5 (Fri) - Left for mountainous area of Sapa at 7am. Sapa is in the North-West of Hanoi. Arrived Sapa at 10pm at night after a very difficult drive.

11/5 (Sat) - Enjoyed Sapa morning view as the mountain was covered by clouds. Very misty. I felt like I was in heaven. The morning market called love market was not interesting. Visited the Cat Cat Village. View of that valley was spectacular. Visited the Hmong hill tribes.

12/5 (Sun) - Visited another smaller mountainous area called Bac Ha. Went to the village and school. The Sunday market opened once a week. Colourful as the various hill tribes with their bright coloured costumes brightened the market. A great time at the Bac Ha market. Also had a great dinner with 2 Solvenian backpackers – Natasa and Alenka, followed by a karaoke session with me singing a song “Killing Me Softly With His Words”.

13/5 (Mon) - Returned from Bac Ha to Hanoi. It took a day. The tour guide, Mr Duc, of Lonely Planet for Sapa and Bac Ha trip (10 - 13/5) was helpful. He explained the attractions well and helped me with the trek on the very muddy roads. He gave me a single nice room for 3 nights without any extra charge of US$5. Sapa and Bac Ha trip (10-13/5) cost US$22.

14/5 (Tue) - Visited Halong Bay (entry fee 30,000D, S$3.60) 3 hours bus ride from Hanoi. Good lunch and great scenery of the bay. About 2,000 little islands rising from the clear emerald waters. Went to the first cave - awesome but not the second cave. Stayed at Cat Ba Island and bought 8 ice-creams for 4 street children who tried very hard to sell their postcards. An ice-cream cost S$0.06 from the road-side ice-cream stall.

15/5 (Wed) - Returned from Halong Bay to Hanoi. The Halong Bay (14-15/5) trip cost only US$13. Cheap and value for money tour with 4 meals, transport and 1 night stay.

16/5 (Thu) - Visited Hanoi Old Quarter again to get rid of the remaining Vietnamese Dongs.

17/5 (Fri) - Took VN741 at 7.30am from Noi Bai Airport (Hanoi). Stopover at Tan Son Nhat Airport (HCM) for 2 hours. Reached Changi Airport at 2pm. Took MRT from Changi station and was home at 3.30 pm. I missed the MRT while I was away and spend about S$1,800 for the whole trip (29 days) including 2 visas, air ticket (S$700), tours, buying souvenirs, etc.........